{"resource_id":6061,"title":"古今图书集成304","format":"md","encoding":"utf-8","chapters":[{"id":"chapter-1","title":"閨飾部匯考","sections":[{"id":"chapter-1-section-1","title":"詩經","paragraphs":[]},{"id":"chapter-1-section-2","title":"召南采蘩章","paragraphs":["被之僮僮夙夜在公被之祁祁薄言還歸","朱","注","被首飾也編髮為之僮僮竦敬也祁祁舒遲貌","去事有儀也","大","全","孔氏曰少牢雲主婦被裼此周禮","所謂次也次第髮長短為之所謂髲也又曰剔","刑人賤者發以被婦人之紒為飾因名髲鬄　華","谷嚴氏曰王后六服緣衣為進朝於王之服首則","服次諸侯夫人於其國衣服與王后同夫人祭祀","不應服次曹氏謂此在商時與周禮異"]},{"id":"chapter-1-section-3","title":"墉風君子偕老章","paragraphs":["副笄六珈","注","副祭服之首飾編髮為之笄衡笄也垂於副之","兩旁當耳其下以紞懸瑱珈之言加也以玉加於","笄而為飾也","大","全","孔氏曰副之言覆所以覆首為之","飾編列他發為之假作紒形加於首上服之以從","祭祀衡笄以玉為之必飾之以六　廬陵羅氏曰","紞織如絛上屬於衡者瑱以玉為之以纊縳之而","屬於紞縣之當耳縳音專卷也","玉之瑱也象之揥也","注","瑱塞耳也象象骨也揥所以摘發也","大","全","華谷嚴","氏曰揥所以摘發者今之□兒也"]},{"id":"chapter-1-section-4","title":"禮記","paragraphs":[]},{"id":"chapter-1-section-5","title":"內則","paragraphs":["婦事舅姑如事父母雞初鳴鹹盥漱櫛縰笄總衣紳","注","櫛梳也縰黑繒韜發者以縰韜發作髻訖即橫","插笄以固髻總亦繒為之以束髮之本而垂餘於","髻後以為飾也櫛訖加縰次加笄加總"]},{"id":"chapter-1-section-6","title":"周禮","paragraphs":[]},{"id":"chapter-1-section-7","title":"天官","paragraphs":["追師下士二人府一人史二人工二人徒四人","訂","義","鄭康成曰追治玉石之名","掌王后之首服為副編次追衡笄","賈氏曰掌王后之首服對夏官弁師掌男子之首","服也愚案婦人之副翟比男子之冕婦人之次比","男子之弁婦人之纚笄比男子之元冠婦人之髽","比男子之免　鄭鍔曰副之言覆所以覆首禮記","雲君卷冕立於阼夫人副褘於東房然則身服褘","衣首乃戴副也康成謂其遺象若今步繇詩云君","子偕老副笄六珈謂此副也編者編列其發以為","之如後世之假紒康成謂服之以採桑然則身服","鞠衣首戴編也次者次第其發也詩云鬒髮如","雲不屑也正謂此耳康成謂服之以見王然則","身服褖衣首則戴次詩言副言而不及編蓋副","者飾之上而次者飾之下惟褘衣可配以副惟褖","衣可配以次惟祭服有衡垂於副之兩旁當耳其","不以紞垂瑱左傳所謂衡紞詩人所謂玉瑱也詩","人又云副笄六珈者蓋自其冠言之則用衡自其","發言之則用笄衡所以維持其冠而笄則以約束","其發二物皆用玉故必追以為之　王昭禹曰後","之服六首服有三蓋以一當二副配褘褕編配闕","鞠次配展褖　史氏曰衡其維持冠之帶傳所謂","衡紞紘綖是矣笄其篸之髻敘禮所謂女子許嫁","笄而字是矣","為九嬪及外內命婦之首服以待祭祀賓客","鄭康成曰外內命婦衣鞠衣袒衣者服編衣褖衣","者服次　鄭鍔曰後之首服三副非眾妾所得而","戴所謂九嬪及外內命婦首服者殆亦編與次而","已　史氏曰祭祀所以見祖廟賓客所以享所尊","故首服用焉以明非祭祀賓客則不用用之未必","飾","喪紀共笄絰亦如之","王昭禹曰喪紀則笄而又加之以絰其共九嬪外","內婦所用亦如祭祀賓客之禮故曰亦如之"]},{"id":"chapter-1-section-8","title":"釋名","paragraphs":["釋首飾","笄系也所以系冠使不墜也","簪兟也以兟連冠於發也又枝也因形名之也","揥摘也所以摘發也","導所以導櫟鬢髮使入巾幘之裡也或曰櫟發以事","名之也","王后首飾曰副副覆也以覆首亦言覆貳也兼用眾","物成其飾也","編編為之次第發也","髲被也發少者得以被助其發也","剔也剔刑人之發為之也","步搖上有垂珠步則搖也","爵釵釵頭及上施爵也","瑱鎮也懸當耳旁不欲使人妄聽自鎮重也或曰充","耳充塞也塞耳亦所以止聽也故里語曰不喑不聾","不成姑公","穿耳施珠曰璫此本出於蠻夷所為也蠻夷婦女輕","淫好走故以此琅璫錘之也今中國人效之耳","脂砥也著面柔滑如砥石也","粉分也研米使分散也","胡粉胡糊也脂和以塗面也","黛代也滅眉毛去之以此畫代其處也","唇脂以丹作之象唇赤也","香澤者人發恆枯悴以此濡澤之也","強其性凝強以制服亂髮也","以丹注面曰勺勺灼也此本天子諸侯群妾當以次","進御其有月事者止而不御重以口說故注此於面","灼然為識女史見之則不書其名於第錄也","赩粉赩赤也染粉使赤以著頰上也","釋衣服","王后之上服曰褘衣畫翬雉之文於衣也伊洛而南","雉青質五色備曰翬鷂翬畫鷂雉之文於衣也江淮","而南雉素質五采皆備成章曰鷂","蔽也所以蔽膝前也婦人蔽膝亦如之齊人謂之","巨巾田家婦女出自田野以覆其頭故以為名也","婦人上服曰□其下垂者上廣下狹如刀圭也","袍丈夫著下至跗者也袍苞也苞內衣也婦人以絳","作衣裳上下連四起施緣亦曰袍義亦然也","晚下如寫其下晚晚而危婦人短者著之可以拜也","段成式髻鬟品","髻鬟","髻始自燧人氏以發相纏而無繫縛","周文王加珠翠翹花名曰鳳髻凌雲髻","漢有迎春髻垂雲髻","王母降武帝宮從者有飛仙髻九環髻","漢元帝宮中有百合分髾髻同心髻","梁冀妻作墮馬髻","太元中公主婦女必緩鬢欣髻又有假髻","合德有欣愁髻","貴妃有義髻","魏明帝宮有涵煙髻","魏武帝宮有反綰髻又梳百花髻","晉惠帝宮有芙蓉髻","梁宮有羅光髻","陳宮有隨雲髻","隋文宮有九貞髻","煬帝宮有迎唐八寰髻又梳翻荷髻坐愁髻","高祖宮有半翻髻反綰樂遊髻","明皇帝宮中雙鐶望仙髻回鶻髻","貴妃作愁來髻","貞元中有歸順髻又有鬧掃妝髻","長安城中有盤桓髻驚鵠髻又拋家髻及倭鬌髻","王憲亦作解散髻斜插簪","周弘文少時著錦絞髻","妝臺記","女飾","舜加女人首飾釵雜以牙□瑁為之","周文王於髻上加珠翠翹花傅之鉛粉其髻高曰鳳","髻又有云髻步步而搖故曰步搖","始皇宮中悉好神仙之術乃梳神仙髻皆紅妝翠眉","漢宮尚之後有迎春髻垂雲髻亦相尚","漢武就李夫人取玉簪搔頭自此宮人多用玉時王","母下降從者皆飛仙髻九環髻遂貫以鳳頭釵孔雀","搔頭雲頭篦以□瑁為之","漢明帝令宮人梳百合分髾髻同心髻","魏武帝令宮人梳反綰髻插雲頭篦又梳百花髻","晉惠帝令宮人梳芙蓉髻插通草五色花","陳宮中梳隨雲髻即暈妝","隋文宮中梳九真髻紅妝謂之桃花面插翠翹桃蘇","搔頭帖五色花子","煬帝令宮人梳迎唐八鬟髻插翡翠釵子作日妝又","令梳翻荷髻作啼妝坐愁髻作紅妝","唐武德中宮中梳半翻髻又梳反綰髻樂遊髻","開元中梳雙鬟望仙髻及回鶻髻","貞元中梳歸順髻帖五色花子","古今注雲長安作盤桓髻驚鵠髻復作鬌髻一雲","梁冀妻墮馬妝之遺狀也","晉永嘉間婦人束髮其緩彌甚紒之堅不能自立發","被於額自出而已吳婦盛妝者急束其發而劘角過","於耳","惠帝元康中婦人之飾有五兵佩又以金銀□瑁之","屬為斧鉞戈戟以當笄","太元中王公婦女必緩鬢傾髻以為盛飾用發既多","不可恆戴乃先於木及籠上裝之名曰假髻","宋元嘉六年民間婦人結髮者三分發抽其鬟直向","上謂之飛天紒始自東海流被民庶","天寶初貴族婦人則簪步搖衫袖窄小","貴妃常以假髻為首飾而好服黃裙","蜀孟末年婦女治發為高髻號朝天髻","理宗朝宮妃梳高髻於頂曰不走落","梁簡文詩同安鬟裡撥異作額間黃撥者捩開也婦","女理鬟用撥以木為之形如棗核兩頭尖尖可二寸","長以漆光澤用以松鬢名曰鬢棗競作薄妥髻如古","之蟬翼鬢也","後周靜帝令宮人黃眉墨妝","漢武帝令宮人掃八字眉","漢日給宮人螺子黛翠眉","魏武帝令宮人"]}]}],"toc":[{"id":"chapter-1-section-1","chapter_title":"閨飾部匯考","section_title":"詩經","is_available":true},{"id":"chapter-1-section-2","chapter_title":"閨飾部匯考","section_title":"召南采蘩章","is_available":true},{"id":"chapter-1-section-3","chapter_title":"閨飾部匯考","section_title":"墉風君子偕老章","is_available":true},{"id":"chapter-1-section-4","chapter_title":"閨飾部匯考","section_title":"禮記","is_available":true},{"id":"chapter-1-section-5","chapter_title":"閨飾部匯考","section_title":"內則","is_available":true},{"id":"chapter-1-section-6","chapter_title":"閨飾部匯考","section_title":"周禮","is_available":true},{"id":"chapter-1-section-7","chapter_title":"閨飾部匯考","section_title":"天官","is_available":true},{"id":"chapter-1-section-8","chapter_title":"閨飾部匯考","section_title":"釋名","is_available":true}],"plain_text":"# 閨飾部匯考\n## 詩經\n## 召南采蘩章\n被之僮僮夙夜在公被之祁祁薄言還歸\n朱\n注\n被首飾也編髮為之僮僮竦敬也祁祁舒遲貌\n去事有儀也\n大\n全\n孔氏曰少牢雲主婦被裼此周禮\n所謂次也次第髮長短為之所謂髲也又曰剔\n刑人賤者發以被婦人之紒為飾因名髲鬄　華\n谷嚴氏曰王后六服緣衣為進朝於王之服首則\n服次諸侯夫人於其國衣服與王后同夫人祭祀\n不應服次曹氏謂此在商時與周禮異\n## 墉風君子偕老章\n副笄六珈\n注\n副祭服之首飾編髮為之笄衡笄也垂於副之\n兩旁當耳其下以紞懸瑱珈之言加也以玉加於\n笄而為飾也\n大\n全\n孔氏曰副之言覆所以覆首為之\n飾編列他發為之假作紒形加於首上服之以從\n祭祀衡笄以玉為之必飾之以六　廬陵羅氏曰\n紞織如絛上屬於衡者瑱以玉為之以纊縳之而\n屬於紞縣之當耳縳音專卷也\n玉之瑱也象之揥也\n注\n瑱塞耳也象象骨也揥所以摘發也\n大\n全\n華谷嚴\n氏曰揥所以摘發者今之□兒也\n## 禮記\n## 內則\n婦事舅姑如事父母雞初鳴鹹盥漱櫛縰笄總衣紳\n注\n櫛梳也縰黑繒韜發者以縰韜發作髻訖即橫\n插笄以固髻總亦繒為之以束髮之本而垂餘於\n髻後以為飾也櫛訖加縰次加笄加總\n## 周禮\n## 天官\n追師下士二人府一人史二人工二人徒四人\n訂\n義\n鄭康成曰追治玉石之名\n掌王后之首服為副編次追衡笄\n賈氏曰掌王后之首服對夏官弁師掌男子之首\n服也愚案婦人之副翟比男子之冕婦人之次比\n男子之弁婦人之纚笄比男子之元冠婦人之髽\n比男子之免　鄭鍔曰副之言覆所以覆首禮記\n雲君卷冕立於阼夫人副褘於東房然則身服褘\n衣首乃戴副也康成謂其遺象若今步繇詩云君\n子偕老副笄六珈謂此副也編者編列其發以為\n之如後世之假紒康成謂服之以採桑然則身服\n鞠衣首戴編也次者次第其發也詩云鬒髮如\n雲不屑也正謂此耳康成謂服之以見王然則\n身服褖衣首則戴次詩言副言而不及編蓋副\n者飾之上而次者飾之下惟褘衣可配以副惟褖\n衣可配以次惟祭服有衡垂於副之兩旁當耳其\n不以紞垂瑱左傳所謂衡紞詩人所謂玉瑱也詩\n人又云副笄六珈者蓋自其冠言之則用衡自其\n發言之則用笄衡所以維持其冠而笄則以約束\n其發二物皆用玉故必追以為之　王昭禹曰後\n之服六首服有三蓋以一當二副配褘褕編配闕\n鞠次配展褖　史氏曰衡其維持冠之帶傳所謂\n衡紞紘綖是矣笄其篸之髻敘禮所謂女子許嫁\n笄而字是矣\n為九嬪及外內命婦之首服以待祭祀賓客\n鄭康成曰外內命婦衣鞠衣袒衣者服編衣褖衣\n者服次　鄭鍔曰後之首服三副非眾妾所得而\n戴所謂九嬪及外內命婦首服者殆亦編與次而\n已　史氏曰祭祀所以見祖廟賓客所以享所尊\n故首服用焉以明非祭祀賓客則不用用之未必\n飾\n喪紀共笄絰亦如之\n王昭禹曰喪紀則笄而又加之以絰其共九嬪外\n內婦所用亦如祭祀賓客之禮故曰亦如之\n## 釋名\n釋首飾\n笄系也所以系冠使不墜也\n簪兟也以兟連冠於發也又枝也因形名之也\n揥摘也所以摘發也\n導所以導櫟鬢髮使入巾幘之裡也或曰櫟發以事\n名之也\n王后首飾曰副副覆也以覆首亦言覆貳也兼用眾\n物成其飾也\n編編為之次第發也\n髲被也發少者得以被助其發也\n剔也剔刑人之發為之也\n步搖上有垂珠步則搖也\n爵釵釵頭及上施爵也\n瑱鎮也懸當耳旁不欲使人妄聽自鎮重也或曰充\n耳充塞也塞耳亦所以止聽也故里語曰不喑不聾\n不成姑公\n穿耳施珠曰璫此本出於蠻夷所為也蠻夷婦女輕\n淫好走故以此琅璫錘之也今中國人效之耳\n脂砥也著面柔滑如砥石也\n粉分也研米使分散也\n胡粉胡糊也脂和以塗面也\n黛代也滅眉毛去之以此畫代其處也\n唇脂以丹作之象唇赤也\n香澤者人發恆枯悴以此濡澤之也\n強其性凝強以制服亂髮也\n以丹注面曰勺勺灼也此本天子諸侯群妾當以次\n進御其有月事者止而不御重以口說故注此於面\n灼然為識女史見之則不書其名於第錄也\n赩粉赩赤也染粉使赤以著頰上也\n釋衣服\n王后之上服曰褘衣畫翬雉之文於衣也伊洛而南\n雉青質五色備曰翬鷂翬畫鷂雉之文於衣也江淮\n而南雉素質五采皆備成章曰鷂\n蔽也所以蔽膝前也婦人蔽膝亦如之齊人謂之\n巨巾田家婦女出自田野以覆其頭故以為名也\n婦人上服曰□其下垂者上廣下狹如刀圭也\n袍丈夫著下至跗者也袍苞也苞內衣也婦人以絳\n作衣裳上下連四起施緣亦曰袍義亦然也\n晚下如寫其下晚晚而危婦人短者著之可以拜也\n段成式髻鬟品\n髻鬟\n髻始自燧人氏以發相纏而無繫縛\n周文王加珠翠翹花名曰鳳髻凌雲髻\n漢有迎春髻垂雲髻\n王母降武帝宮從者有飛仙髻九環髻\n漢元帝宮中有百合分髾髻同心髻\n梁冀妻作墮馬髻\n太元中公主婦女必緩鬢欣髻又有假髻\n合德有欣愁髻\n貴妃有義髻\n魏明帝宮有涵煙髻\n魏武帝宮有反綰髻又梳百花髻\n晉惠帝宮有芙蓉髻\n梁宮有羅光髻\n陳宮有隨雲髻\n隋文宮有九貞髻\n煬帝宮有迎唐八寰髻又梳翻荷髻坐愁髻\n高祖宮有半翻髻反綰樂遊髻\n明皇帝宮中雙鐶望仙髻回鶻髻\n貴妃作愁來髻\n貞元中有歸順髻又有鬧掃妝髻\n長安城中有盤桓髻驚鵠髻又拋家髻及倭鬌髻\n王憲亦作解散髻斜插簪\n周弘文少時著錦絞髻\n妝臺記\n女飾\n舜加女人首飾釵雜以牙□瑁為之\n周文王於髻上加珠翠翹花傅之鉛粉其髻高曰鳳\n髻又有云髻步步而搖故曰步搖\n始皇宮中悉好神仙之術乃梳神仙髻皆紅妝翠眉\n漢宮尚之後有迎春髻垂雲髻亦相尚\n漢武就李夫人取玉簪搔頭自此宮人多用玉時王\n母下降從者皆飛仙髻九環髻遂貫以鳳頭釵孔雀\n搔頭雲頭篦以□瑁為之\n漢明帝令宮人梳百合分髾髻同心髻\n魏武帝令宮人梳反綰髻插雲頭篦又梳百花髻\n晉惠帝令宮人梳芙蓉髻插通草五色花\n陳宮中梳隨雲髻即暈妝\n隋文宮中梳九真髻紅妝謂之桃花面插翠翹桃蘇\n搔頭帖五色花子\n煬帝令宮人梳迎唐八鬟髻插翡翠釵子作日妝又\n令梳翻荷髻作啼妝坐愁髻作紅妝\n唐武德中宮中梳半翻髻又梳反綰髻樂遊髻\n開元中梳雙鬟望仙髻及回鶻髻\n貞元中梳歸順髻帖五色花子\n古今注雲長安作盤桓髻驚鵠髻復作鬌髻一雲\n梁冀妻墮馬妝之遺狀也\n晉永嘉間婦人束髮其緩彌甚紒之堅不能自立發\n被於額自出而已吳婦盛妝者急束其發而劘角過\n於耳\n惠帝元康中婦人之飾有五兵佩又以金銀□瑁之\n屬為斧鉞戈戟以當笄\n太元中王公婦女必緩鬢傾髻以為盛飾用發既多\n不可恆戴乃先於木及籠上裝之名曰假髻\n宋元嘉六年民間婦人結髮者三分發抽其鬟直向\n上謂之飛天紒始自東海流被民庶\n天寶初貴族婦人則簪步搖衫袖窄小\n貴妃常以假髻為首飾而好服黃裙\n蜀孟末年婦女治發為高髻號朝天髻\n理宗朝宮妃梳高髻於頂曰不走落\n梁簡文詩同安鬟裡撥異作額間黃撥者捩開也婦\n女理鬟用撥以木為之形如棗核兩頭尖尖可二寸\n長以漆光澤用以松鬢名曰鬢棗競作薄妥髻如古\n之蟬翼鬢也\n後周靜帝令宮人黃眉墨妝\n漢武帝令宮人掃八字眉\n漢日給宮人螺子黛翠眉\n魏武帝令宮人","is_preview":true,"preview_page_limit":10}